Tools and tips for finishing your fresh castings:

Thankyou so much for joining me in a 1:1 lesson on my methods of wax building for jewellery design. I hope you enjoyed your time with me!

To make sure you are equipped with everything you need to not only keep creating wax jewellery BUT also finishing your pieces I have created a small guide on tools I use as-well as my polishing routine/steps.

If you have any questions what-so-ever please make sure to ask me as I will create an FAQ section on this page. Your question might benefit others so don’t be afraid to ask, no matter how small or simple it may seem! It’s helpful for me to understand any painpoints or confusion from a fresh lens (thats you!)

Without further ado, find your helpful info below!

 


Recommended extra tools for finishing:

  • Dremel (Bunnings) $159

  • Wooden ring holder $15

  • Split mandrel emerys (mounted) $4.5 each (180, 240, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000)

  • Sawframe $34 $13

  • Sawblades (2.0 size) $15

  • Bandaids $5-8?

  • Bench peg $18

  • Pre-Polish compound (Tripoli) $8

  • Final polish compound (Rouge) $8.5

  • Polishing wheels (get a few) $3.95

  • Goats hair wheel (get a few) $2

  • Town Talk - Original Silver Cloth 30 x 45cm $27 (will last you AGES)

  • Thermoloc $69

  • Mask $95

    Not 100% necessary but I really highly recommend having:

  • Ring Mandrel $50

  • Rawhide Mallet $25

  • Wax ring design kit $180 or $185

Suppliers list:

  • Calibrated lab and natural gems: OA Gems (You need an ABN)

  • Natural ethical gems: Gem Monarchy (You need an ABN/IG)

  • Good quality gems: Tatum Gems (You need an ABN/IG)

  • Chain, findings, sheet, solder: Jewellery Centre (You need an ABN) and Twin Plaza (You need an ABN)

  • Casting: Lenrose, APECS, Chemgold, Morris and Watson

  • Etsy for other gems and Opals


Polishing steps that I use:

  1. De-sprue the castings using a sawframe and 2/0 blades. Making sure to use a little lubricant (bees wax or some good old saliva will do)

  2. Use the 180 or 240 grit split mandrel sanding barrels to file down the rest of the sprue and to make the inside of the ring smooth until theres no lines

  3. Use a steel mandrel to shape the band or size it to the desired size using a rawhide mallet (or plastic mallet)

  4. Set the stones if required

  5. Oxidise the metals if required (I use liver of sulphur)

  6. Finish the inside using the split mandrel sanding grits in this order (600, 1000, 1500, 2000) - making sure to also round off the edges as I like to give my rings a comfort fit and ensure no sharp edges.

  7. Using a felt polishing wheel or goats hair mop I use a final polish (I use ZAM, white or rouge compound is good too)

  8. Using a PRE POLISH compound - Tripoli - I then polish the outside of the rings using a stiff felt mop until the metals are smooth and there are no rough/matte areas.

  9. I soak all the jewellery in HOT water and soap for about 5-10 minutes before scrubbing under running hot water with soap and an old toothbrush.

  10. We go for a final polish using ZAM, white or rouge compound on a fluffy mop (named as polishing wheels on the above tools list) or goats hair mop.

  11. I again soak all the jewellery in HOT water and soap for about 5-10 minutes before scrubbing under running hot water with soap and an old toothbrush.

  12. I do a claw check on all my pieces as the very tips can sometimes lift during the polishing phase, and fibres from the mops/polishing wheels can get caught under the claws.

  13. Finally, I give each item a once over with a polishing cloth to make sure all soap residue is off the rings as these can actually tarnish and leave little brown spots on the silver if not dried off fully.

  14. This is where I then take photos of everything before it either a) ships out OR b) goes on the shop. I take photos of everysingle unique piece I make for my records and content on my IG. Its also a good practice for evidence of a rings condition before its shipped out incase of any accidents or breakages that are not my fault (not that this has ever happened)


How I get my pieces cast:

  • Find a casting place

  • Remove all the stones from the waxes

  • Package up the waxes in plastic baggies - I write onto the baggie what metal I want the pieces cast in along with my name and number - for the first few times you cast somewhere new make sure to give them your name, email, address and phone number.

  • I line a shipping box with bubble wrap and place in my waxes, cover with bubble wrap LOOSELY but also ensuring the baggies don’t move around/shake/hit the sides. I never OVERPACK it as this can put pressure on your waxes and cause them to break (i.e claws). Feel free to message me photos or videos of your’s if you’re unsure.


Please send me some photos of any work you create over the coming weeks as i’d love to see your progress!

Much love,

Katie Flinn xx